So, apparently Europeans aren’t quite as up and at ‘em on a
gray, chilly Saturday morning as tourists are—who would’ve thought? We got out early this morning, planning to
grab some breakfast and be at the Rijkmuseum before it opened at 9 to avoid any
potential lines since apparently these can be brutal (they don’t take
reservations). It was very quiet on the
streets which was really lovely; we wandered up toward the museum stopping at
Village Bagels for what was a semi-decent bagel actually outside of NY.
Arriving at the Rijk, we realized the nightmare lines really
must not be applicable at opening, or that we did this trip perfectly since
it’s far from high tourist season. Either way we walked right in, scanned our
museumkaarts and started moving through the big museum. It’s in a beautiful building and I have to
say I was impressed by the flow and setup of many of the exhibits in addition
to being awed by the historic building.
Some of the highlights included the library, the hall of honor where
they showcase some of the most famous Dutch works, Rembrandt’s NightWatch, the
ship models room, and the famous Van Gogh self portrait.
Continuing our cultural streak, we walked through
museumplein and grabbed a quick bite at the café at the Concertgebouw (their
major concert hall). Great space; did
some people watching and ate a light lunch and were back out to conquer more
art.
We had reservations at the Van Gogh museum, so that coupled
with the MuseumKaarts enabled us to jump a huge line and walk right in (in case
I haven’t made this clear, the ease at which these two things let you do
museums here is unbelievable). The Van Gogh museum was good, if more crowded
than some of the other sites we’ve spent time in. The first floor took you through his
self-portraits and timeline, the second floor dealt a lot with inspiration and
his circle, the third floor was more about him developing his technique, the
fourth was the latter part of his life and correspondence/personal life. A good retrospective and we were surprised by
some of the works that we had never seen before—particularly liked his orchard
series and didn’t realize he had done a grouping of Japanese inspired paintings
either! It is funny though when you got a museum about an artist and you know
there are so many major works that are held at other museums in the world, make
sense but definitely gives you pause I think!
Leaving museumplein, we walked through the Albert Cuyp
Market. It’s your typical touristy market, but there were definitely some
highlights and when you got about a block off the actual market, there were
really cool bread shops, clothing stores, etc.
One of the things we had learned in our research was that there is a
strong Indonesian population and heritage in Amsterdam—in the spirit of that, I
came across a terrific international store (Tjin’s) that was right off the
market so decided to stop by. While we couldn’t take home their homemade sambal
since it was not in a strong container (bummer!), we did find one that sounded
interesting that was from a Dutch producer so brought that home as one of our
foodie souvenirs.
Continuing the walk down the Market street, we stopped for 2 quick snacks—mini pancakes called porffiges (like Swedish ebelskivvers but not filled) and a hot stroopwaffel. Delicious and the perfect pick-me-up in the midst of the light drizzle we had all day.
We walked along the Amstel River a bit until we reached the last stop of the day, the Hermitage. Yes, your confusion is warranted, we are not in Russia, but they have a branch here which was doing an exhibit we were excited for- dining with the tsars. A light retrospective on the social side of the Tsars based around the collections of china on display. Fun to read about etiquette and just see some of the splendor in person! The other half of the Hermitage has a portrait gallery display, which focuses on the power players in Amsterdam’s history and really just tries to provide some groundwork of the history.
Crossing back over the Amstel, we saw the famous Magere Brug
(bridge) and made it back to our hotel in time to rest up prior to dinner.
After a day full of being on our feet, we were pretty excited about our dinner
in the Waldorf at Librije Zusje. This was our big dinner of the trip and it was
absolutely worth it—a fairly small dining room with an absolutely delicious menu,
we actually decided to order a la carte instead of the set tasting so we could
try more. I won’t bore you with too many foodie details, but we started off
with several small bites that were phenomenal then had an incredible meal
including grilled langoustines, venison, deconstructed apple pie, etc—you get
the picture but I can’t express how delighted our taste buds were!
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